Throttle issue

[Rake12]

Just wondering how you are making out with the touchy jerky throttle. Mine is an XR and the throttle is very annoying especially when bike is cold. It is fine once you get going over say 10 mph or so. But at slow speeds it is very bad ,and hard to keep a steady speed.

 

[Dragoon]

Can-Am went throttle by wire several years ago, and it took a lot of getting used to me (they have since made it better on newer models). The throttle is super sensitive and not linear like a throttle cable. You have to learn to make your leg absorb/anticipate bumps so that the shock doesn't translate from your leg into the throttle peddle.

 

[Bamaridge]

Yes. Annoying. My dog loves riding. But going in reverse first thing it about throws him on the dash. Has to let engine rev slow to allow it to start jumping before I can get it moving.

 

[BusinessPARTY]

Just wondering how you are making out with the touchy jerky throttle. Mine is an XR and the throttle is very annoying especially when bike is cold. It is fine once you get going over say 10 mph or so. But at slow speeds it is very bad ,and hard to keep a steady speed.

I put it in work mode 4hi till warm... when belt was new and cold it was worse. Better now it takes getting used to too..

 

[Bamaridge]

It’s a pain. Just dealing with it. There’s no way to have a smooth throttle that’s for sure. I guess it’s the design. Have to get too many RPM’s to make it move. Kawasaki needs to figure it out.

 

[Rake12]

I installed the AA clutch kit, no more jerky throttle. It is the clutch ramp causing the issue. It has a high spot that it has to climb over on engagement, causing the issue, mine is smooth as silk now.

 

[Dragoon]

I'm glad to hear that fixed it! Did you install the kit yourself?

 

[Rake12]

Yep wasn't bad AA has a video shows exactly how to do it. I ACTUALLY took the secondary apart as well and removed one thin shim made the belt ride a bit higher in secondary.No special tools needed for the primary clutch. Now if you do anything with the secondary you will need a clutch spring compression tool. Also the snap ring that holds the spring in place is junk.The third time I removed it it broke. And they are on back order from Kawasaki until mid March. I had to take mine to a machine shop that carries all that stuff and got one there. Not exactly the same but 10 times stronger. And worked no problem. One more thing the primary on these things stick so should be taken apart quit regular.Mine only had 400 miles on it and it was sticking when I pulled it apart. Real fine sand paper 2000 grit is what I used. All of this is in the AA VIDEO worth watching even if you do nothing.

 

[Rake12]

 

[Dragoon]

That is much easier than I was expecting. It's nice that the clutches are easily accessible through the wheel well.

 

[Rake12]

Yep good video and not a bad job at all